On the 26th of May, we left Kalpa at 8:30 in the
morning and took the same road back up to Karcham. From there we turned left
towards Sangla. There was a tunnel just beyond the small bridge that we were
crossing and initially we were all excited to drive through the tunnel. However,
when we reached there we saw that it was still under construction and we took
the road around the tunnel. As usual, the road was in pretty bad shape.
Actually from a distance I could not see any road at all. So when our driver
was telling us that we were not going to take the tunnel, I was confused since
I did not notice any road after the bridge except the tunnel way.
Our car stopped at a roadside temple for a couple of minutes
which is probably considered auspicious by the local drivers. The priest came
and offered us some prasada and
prayed for our wellbeing and safety. We took our tea break in the market area
of the town of Sangla. The town is quite a big one in the neighbourhood and
most of the tourists stay at this place only and go for sightseeing elsewhere.
However, on recommendation of some of my friends, I had booked our
accommodation in Chitkul which is a small village with a few lodging options.
We filled ourselves with pakoras
and sweets along with desi chai in a
small but clean tea shop. Whatever we had eaten in the breakfast had already been
digested and we anticipated having a late lunch at Chitkul as there was still
some distance to cover. The view of the
Baspa river and the mountain range was enchanting from Baspa. It lifted our
spirits all the more thinking about what we would have in store at Chitkul.
The view on the road from Sangla to Chitkul was awesome. And
although the road was narrow, it was in a relatively good condition. And there
was hardly any traffic on the route. I was sitting in the front beside the
driver and tried hard to capture the surroundings with my lenses. The view was
changing at some times ranging from lush green trees on the mountains to dry
and barren places with boulders and stones lying all around. The temperature
was also a pleasant one. In fact I kept my windows down and caught a little
cold. On the way we noticed some nature camps which provide tourist accommodation.
Our hotel was however further up.
Initially, we had booked Hotel Shahenshah
which is owned by the same person, Sandeep Karar, who runs the hotel Rakpa
Regency at Kalpa. Since there was a large tourist group (whom we noticed at
Kalpa itself), he requested us to stay at Panchali Resort, which is also owned
by him. Panchali Resort is the last hotel at the end of the
motorable road. However, what we heard over there is that the road would be
extended a further 25 Kms. So, new hotels would crop up I guess closer to the
mountain range. The hotel had an exquisite view of the mountains. Once we
opened the windows of our room, there was nothing between the mountain and us.
However, the cleanliness and service of the hotel was not good. Also, food options
were limited and there was a huge delay between the time we ordered and we got
our food. Perhaps they were also running short of staff.
After having lunch and a little rest, we went to the
riverbed in the late evening. The clear blue water of the Baspa river
surrounded by the mountains and the snow covered peaks at stone throwing
distance formed a breathtaking view. In fact back at the hotel, people told us
that the place was not far from the Tibet border, Chitkul being the last
village. The river water was very cold and it had a good current too. The
riverbed was studded with small pebbles and large stones and we rested for a while on
those stones taking in the superlative beauty of the place. There was a school
nearby. We envied the location but at the same time pitied for the students who
have to come so far away every day.
When it was time to return, I proposed to take a different
route which I noticed further up. Only Bappa agreed to accompany me in this
adventurous detour. Now the only question was how to go up and be on that path.
We started to follow the way what seemed to go up and meet our target path but after
some time we were kind of lost and doubted whether it was the right way. After
some time we met a local man with a cow. He assured us that we were on the
right track and when we enquired whether the path was tough, he commented that
even his cow could use that comfortably. Our confidence was restored and we
continued our walk but the path was becoming all the more difficult with little
waterfalls in between and it was tough to breathe as well. Anyway I have a
breathing problem and the high altitude was taking its toll. I was feeling sorry
for Bappa. Though he has healthier than me, but he was also feeling exhausted
and he had only agreed to come with me so that I am not alone. We stopped for a
while and contemplated whether we should go back. When we looked back we did
not find any one of the team so they must have returned to the hotel already.
Just then we noticed two young girls coming down. They were not locals but
tourists. They were confused whether they could go down to the river following
that route. We told them we have followed that route from the riverbed itself
so they could continue walking down. And they assured us that we would find the
way back to the hotel if we continue moving up. We were encouraged that if they
could do it so could we and started walking upwards. But after some more time
we were again confused as we could not find any way further. We stopped for a while to
catch some air as we were breathing heavily by then. Ultimately we found our
way back to the hotel amidst the cultivation land which was being prepared for
step farming. On our way back we met some military personnel from Indo-Tibet
Border Force, who were returning to their check posts at the Tibet border.
When we finally reached the hotel we found the other members
of our group worried and anxious as a long time had passed and the fact that
they could not contact us over our cell phones (there was no mobile tower) made
them more tensed. They were a little bit comforted they were told by those two
girls that they had met us some time before. We found Mukherjeekaku had returned to
his room much earlier as he was not feeling well. Even Chhotomasi was having
some breathing problems. I on my part did not disclose that I experienced some
spasms myself and went to my room to take rest. During night I was running a
mild temperature and Chhotomasi rebuked me for my bravado. I was disheartened and
agonized by the fact that my body did not respond positively to the small trek
and was worried about how would I go to places which involve fair bit of
walking in hilly terrain.
The next day was the last of our sojourn in the Himalayas.
We took our way back to Kalpa from where we boarded the return train, halting
at Narkanda in between for the night. It was time to bid goodbye to the
picturesque Kinnaur and return the routine chores of city life.
No comments:
Post a Comment